I keep referring to the new amplifier as the 6V6 “Curly Maple” Amplifier. But is it really?
It’s not the curly maple part of the name that I’m questioning. A simple look at the chassis confirms the accuracy of that part.
The real question I have is about the 6V6 part. The operating point for this amplifier comes from the 6V6 SE-UL Optimization Study. So from that perspective the name makes sense. However, it is also based on the Marblewood design. And I know from experience and testing that the Marblewood amp supports the 6V6, 6L6, 6F6, and 6W6 families of power tubes. But calling it the 6V6-6L6-6F6-6W6 “Curly Maple” Amplifier seems far too much of a mouthful.
Also, the Marblewood design is just marginal in supporting the 6W6, operating that tube right at the edge of it’s operational envelope. Since this design has the potential for a slightly higher B+ voltage, the 6W6 may not be a suitable power tube in this design. But the 6V6-6L6-6F6 “Curly Maple” Amplifier hardly seems any better of a moniker. I briefly thought about using 6*6 but I think that would just be confusing. It is also possible to use 6V6/6L6 to describe the amp. This preserves some descriptive quality without being long winded but it also doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. I’ll probably keep thinking about it and changing my mind right up to the minute I am typing up the project page.
On other fronts, I managed to get the top plate properly fit to the chassis again. This just entailed shaving off a millimeter or two in a couple of spots. However, I had already primed the top plate before I realized it needed to be refit. So this afternoon I reapplied the primer to the top plate in preparation for the final semi-gloss black finish. Once the primer is good and hard, 24 to 48 hours, I’ll begin trying to get a decent final finish on the piece. I may have, in the past, ranted a little about the poor quality of modern spray paints in the US (That was a Mistake!). Some of the problems are about technique, but the paints available today are vastly inferior to those available even just 20 years ago. I am hoping that I won’t have as many problems with this paint job.
As always, questions and comments are welcome.
Hello Matt:
A few comments for you to consider:
I often cut the rabbit rebates for the top 1/8 inch deep than flush. This recesses the metal and slightly accents the joint. The wood is likely to shrink a bit and I prefer the look of the recess rather than the top plate being slightly too tall in a few months.
I also put finishing oil on all wood surfaces so it all loses moisture slowly and evenly.
I vent the wooden chassis to release heat from below. I assume you will do this on the top plate.
Regarding the name? Perhaps you are over thinking this a little. A simple name is often the best. It is really about the sound isn’t it?